Saturday, March 31, 2012

Salar de Uyuni-3 days/2 nights

Really this was a 4 day trip...cause it took some 13 hours on an overnight bus to get from La Paz to Uyuni, Bolivia...someone told me there are only two main highways in Bolivia that are paved...whether that's accurate or not, we surely weren´t on one of them...nothing speaks to the culture like an overnight bus ride on dirt roads! I actually slept...but I can´t speak for everyone else.

(Day 1)

At this point, the sun was up, beautiful skies, and my two Australian cohorts were ready to book a tour...we had traveled from La Paz without a reservation for the salt flats tour because it´s obvious that one can arrange better accommodations within the access city as opposed to a few hundred kilometers away.  That being said, we fended off a bunch of guides selling their product in search for a reputable source that was recommended to me.  They only had one spot for today...so we got this ladies recommendation to another tour agency and bam! "Come back in an hour and we´ll be ready to leave in the 4x4"..perfect, time for breaky!

This nice hotel, which I can´t for the life of me remember the name of, had a buffet breakfast filled with pancakes, fresh eggs, granola, yogurt and a bunch of coffee and tea...and guess what!? Us three were the only ones there!  Free for all...we had heard that some of the salt tour companies can be a little stingy with food preparations and without truly knowing our situation, we indulged to the fullest!

With three surprisingly descent looking Toyota land cruisers in front of us, we took the one that seemed to be the newest.  Green, clean, and only a couple of window cracks :)  And we were off!  We opted to not spring for the English speaking guide for we wanted some authentic Spanish practice...I bring this up now because the first location of the tour, only 10 minutes away, was the "train cemetery," which was either a result of the deceased railway in 1910...or created in 1910 and then later seized to run...or...well really this info is worthless cause my Spanish is merely at a need to survive basis...and lets face it...this yard of old rusty trains bared little influence on my overall experience.  I´m not even sure if the guide said 1910. Wow, ok...I´m off topic...time for a bit of tea and I´ll return...

Mint, splash of condensed milk, and 6 tears of stevia extract...listo!

As we passed three SUV´s on the 30 minute jaunt to the famous Salar de Uyuni (salt flats of the town Uyuni) it increasingly became apparent that our young driver was a) in a hurry or b) not older than he appeared...he was just ripping down these dirt roads! I enjoyed it, ha!

Then it appeared...massive mirages at the base of the hills, almost like waves or translucent ghosts...quite amazing.  We entered at a section of small rounded indentations that housed pools of water and were coincidentally like speed bumps, forcing our driver to yield his progress...nope, surely it was called "salt flats" for a reason...smashing over a hundred km/hr we arrived to a little building (apparantly a museum, I didn´t manage to go inside).  This was our rendezvou point..."caminan para cinco minutos y despues almuerzo"...ok cool, later bro!   We loaded my day pack with a toy walrus, a bottle of wine, a toothbrush, bottle of water, and our cameras...set out on foot and walked a staggering 100 meters away for some cliche photos on the flats!  We took turns snapping ridiculous photos of each other holding up bottles of wine, leaping in the air over things, and cringing from the "attack of the walrus!" 

Wow!  This tea is amazing...I´m freezing at the beach in Chile and just guzzling hot hot tea as I recollect this great adventure...ok back to the goods!

"What about lunch?" The moment of truth...how much food do we really get?  Oh, its put away, then the guide comes over..."5 minutes!" We obviously were engaged in the photos and missed our hot meal...he pulled it back out, we ate a few bites and back to the photos...good amount of cold food but the vibes from the guide shadowed the feast...done with it!  As we reclaimed our strategic position on the flats so as not to get other people in our photos, we were accompanied by two very nice Swedish girls who were touring with the same company...they had been stuck with 3 older French people in one of the other SUV´s...we were a natural draw or the French were just a repellent!  Anyway, lots of photos.  Neat, quirky, and hilarious to say the least...I was a bit annoying solely because I couldn´t see.  It was intensely bright and reflective out, and my sunnies were of little preventative use for squinting...needless to say...I took hundreds of photos and only a few are worthy of show...I guess I need a class on lining up horizons...whatever!

"Oh what!? Who is that, are they yelling at us?" The three Belgian folks in our group, whom hadn´t spoken a word to us yet, were yelling and waving us in...apparently they were satisfied with a couple nude photos on the flats and were ready...we come to find out that the guide was a in hurry because we had overstayed our welcome by an hour or so...photos are really fun!

Ripping down the country dirt roads, passing llamas and vast open plains with subtle undulation, we couldn´t help but notice the wall of blackness ahead...Literally a 180 degree plane (geometric object) that screamed thunderous plight.  Amazingly, our guide, knowingly or unknowingly, managed to circumvent this display of natural beauty as we merely traveled along side it. Breath taking views of lightening accompanied by the sunset that peaked through the gap of the horizon and the infinite wall of darkness...it was as if the hills were on fire and the lightening caused it...and as we continued head on into the fiery sunset, we came to a miniature salt flat abreast the hillside in front.  We pulled over and ran out on to the flats, cameras in hand, like little kids unleashed on the playground...cognisant of our window of opportunity we feverishly began taking photos...one of the Belgians was out with his super nice SLR trying to capture a bolt of lightening...winded (elevation), chilled, and smiling ear to ear, the Aussies and I were last in the SUV...and the Belgian leaned over with his camera...he had done it...he captured the girls with a bolt striking down on Clare´s head!  Amazing!

Then is started to pour!  Only 30 minutes to the hostel in a small town San Juan del Rosario...thank god! We ran inside...crunch, crunch...looked down...and we were standing on a floor of loose salt...a salt hotel...the walls, the floor, the dinner tables...everything was salt!  Our beds were in rooms of loosely packed salt floors...such an interesting day...a boring train cemetery to salty sleepy time! despite having to pay for a hot shower...just over a buck...the experience was unforgettable and our Belgian crew finally opened up and let their true colors shine(they apparently didn´t get a wink of sleep on the overnight bus from La Paz). 

(Day 2)

Bright and early...we started off close to the hotel, maybe 5 minutes away, at the mummy cemetery (Situ) (weird pattern forming here). Massive oddly shaped lava rocks with man made holes that housed skeletal remains of the natives who perished during the era of Inca proliferation.  The nearby pack of local llamas and endless fields of brightly colored quinoa (delicious seed/whole grain) were more interesting. 

Lots of driving today...up steep rocky inclines, down massive craters, and through endless snow capped volcanoes.  We kept climbing into the "altiplano" of Bolivia...reaching staggering heights over 14,000 ft.  We stopped to take photos, stretch the legs, and eat lunch at a series of massive lagoons. Laguna Honda, Chiarcota and CaƱapa...filled with amazing colors from minerals and bacteria which give the flamingo its beautiful pink colors...lots and lots of penguins...damn it...I mean flamingos...hahaha...I kept calling them penguins (not enough sleep)!

There were amazing volcanic rock formations that stand out in my memory...Siloli desert...wind carved rock formations that seemed to be placed there by aliens or something...quite astonishing shapes! We spotted lots of indigenous "pecunas" which were like alpacas but protected by law. Beautiful little guys just hanging with the flamingos. 

We finished at Laguna Colorado...an extremely massive and at the moment red lagoon filled with flamingos and protruding white peninsulas of borax!  My favorite part was looking over the lagoon to the mountains that appeared to have molten gold spewing down the crevasses...my camera battery had just died and I couldn´t get a photo to do it justice.

We got to the hotel, a six bed dorm with warped beds and electricity that turned on after 7 pm. Sleeping at nearly 5,000 meters does have its advantages though...unbelievable views of the stars...you had to bundle up to fight the blistering cold winds but the shooting stars, planets, and southern cross were jaw dropping! 

(Day 3)

We awoke at 4:30 am and were packed and in the jeep by 5 am...no breakfast yet...as the sun was just casting ambient light we could barely see the geysers...5,000 meters and negative Celsius...we didn´t care too much and only snapped a couple photos for evidence...the real draw and attraction was the hot springs.  5,000 meters, extremely hot, and right upside another lagoon, we stripped down with the rest of the tour companies and bathed as the  sun split through the steam once over the snowy tips of our wake.  Then I ate a crap ton of pancakes, sweet yogurt, and cookies...don´t forget the tea...and was a sugar high that lasted me all the way to the Chilean border. By 11am I was at immigration getting my temporary tourist visa for Chile in the town of San Pedro de Atacama.  The rest of my newly formed friends stayed in Bolivia and returned back to Uyuni so they could endure another VIP bus ride back to La Paz...Best photos of my South American tour thus far!

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

"Pampas (Day 3)"

(Day 3)

-we awoke with the  first bit of rain on the entire trip...not bad for the wet season.
-had our final breakfast and hopped into the boat wearing swim suits and our ponchos
-we made it to this series of wide open pools...then Choco starts smacking the top  of the motor making a pop noise...he thew an empty water bottle into the middle of the pool and said "ok jump in"...Matthias (from Germany with a weird Australian accent when he spoke English) and got in and all of a sudden the "pink dolphins" started spouting and surfacing all around us...it was exhilarating and scary at times because the water is so murky and the so called pink looked more like grey!
-we headed back after spotting numerous birds and finally the green and yellow Macaws!
-Lunch
-Boat ride back to the mainland...
-Snickers!
-3 hour 4x4 ride back to Rurrenabaque
-Italian dinner from a French chef that was really amazing and really expensive (60 Bolivianos...maybe 8-9$) haha
-Sleep in a great hostel with amazing beds for 50 Bolivianos a night...
-Granola then flight back to La Paz... just in time to celebrate St. Patricks day with the crazy Irish in the highest Irish bar in the world...Wild Rover Hostel!!!!!!!!!

"Pampas (Day 2)"

(Day2)

-awoke moderately early for a hot breakfast...mostlystarches like fried donuts and pancakes with jelly and "dulce de leche" (like caramel spread)...tea and fresh orange juice.
-we all took 5 minutes trying to figure out what size rain boots would fit...Smallest boots of my life! This was right about the time when the howler monkeys came out to greet us.
-the boots were for our voyage through the flooded grasslands to a seasonal island in hopes of spotting an anaconda and or other wildlife...really just the anaconda was of concern...our guide Choco said it had been three months since he had last see one...the dry season! Funny cause  I couldn´t have been more confident that we would find one...he assured me it wasn´t that easy...I smiled!
 "Law of attraction Choco"...
"¿Que?"...
"never mind :)"
-we said goodbye to the howler monkeys overhead and got into the boat and headed up stream, passing the little  cottage where we had beers at sunset the night before (mosquito-ville!)...the grasslands were really shallow and Choco would have us rock the boat side to side and shift our body weight around so as not to get stuck and have to walk the rest of the way...sounds of the engine revving from Choco lifting the prop out of the water to rid the weeds!
-I spotted a group of 5 eggs on a lilly pad...no idea what they were and Choco couldn´t stop or we would have gotten stuck...
-we made it!
-ok get out and start searching for anything...the boots just kept us out of the mud for we (well the guides and I were) were waist deep looking in tree holes, up into the canopy, through the grass...I was just waiting to bit attacked by a croc or some deadly serpent...
-First thing spotted was a "Dung Beetle"
-Then lizards
-All of a sudden we heard shouting on the other side of the tiny island...
-ANACONDA!!!!!!! really a much lighter color than I was expecting, a white undedrbelly, and yellow and green back with less obvious spots than I imagined..."law of attraction"
-it was chilling out in the tree on the canopy overhanging the water...a mass surrounded the area...next thing we know...a guide starts up the base of the small tree...climbing through spider webs, dry and dead debris, scratching his way out to the end of the limbs...wack! one hand on the tail and the Anaconda tries for the water...all of the commotion and loud noise from the onlookers startled a wasps nest and we all darted, leaving the guide to fend for himself...the snake disappeared into the water...Choco was glad though, because all of the sunscreen and mosquito repellent on our hands is bad for the animals and the noise and stress is quite a lot for the snake...It was amazing none the least!
-then an Owl
-a Toucan
-and another snake...supposedly a Green Mamba..I´m skeptic on that classification, though it was a green snake...whether it´s poisonous or not is another story.
-after the island fun, we arrived back home for a ready-lunch and lemonade! We took a short "ciesta" and then headed back into the boat...
-we went for a long leisurely ride to go catch Piranha and spot birds on the way!
-Birds of Paradise!!!
-two types of toucans!
-lots and lots of wildlife...
-we eventually got a narrow set of linking passages off the river but in well flooded areas...made a U-Turn and posted up next a to a grassy wetland that was the mouth flowing into the river...meaning there was a nice current coming from behind us...
-we unraveled our wooden handle with line and a hook attached...placed raw chunks of steak on the hooks and threw the line over the edge no more than 10 feet away...non-stop bites for everyone...but you have to be quick, using your supporting hand to feel the tension and strike of the Piranhas...
-We ended up catching 14, two types the red and blue (big) Piranhas (my two weren´t as big as Choco´s but hey, he´s a veteran!)...a healthy loot for non-guaranteed activity..."law of attraction" baby!!
-we headed back for a sunset bird-watching ride and eventually stopping at a different river bar with a great two story "mirador" for a beer and sunset photos!







-Dinner
-fireflies and croc eyes for desert... We went hunting for baby crocs too...and of course we caught them...what´s that law again?
-sleepy time!

In Tribute to Mom and Dad and the rest of Family..."Pampas (Day1)"

I´m so thankful for the fortunate life that I´ve had thus far and that I will inevitably continue to have.  And I truly want to pay thanks to Mom and Dad.  All of the traveling in the US growing up, the countless outdoor excursions, and endless search for wildlife has been so influential in my life.  Thank you!  And to the rest of the family, you all play an equal part in this too...the Sturdevant´s...outdoor lovers!  This trip into the Amazon basin has been so thrilling and moving, and I couldn´t help but get nostalgic on my trip.  I just kept having flashbacks to Drummond Island, where the family is always watching the animals.  From early breakfast seeing the birds and fresh water otters to the post dinner sunset boat rides and infamous Ford-pickup-deer & bear-watching-round-ups!  The following was experienced with all of you in mind and makes me thankful for each and everyone one you! My experience and perspective wouldn´t have been the same without your direct influence on my life over the years...

(Day 1)
-flew into Rurrenabaque out of La Paz, Bolivia one day before.
-roamed the town, hiked to the top of the mountain with the white cross, booked my excursion
-awoke 7:30 on 3/13/2012, double checked my day pack...Deet, Sunscreen, Rain Pancho...check!
-Arrive at Cafe de la Jungla...best bowl of granola I´ve ever had, vat (3 cups) of green tea, banana smoothie, milk, jungle honey and got it all for 20 Bolivianos...(3$)
-8:30 arrive at Mogli tours...I was solo, so they added me to another tour group...Indigena
-I met Choco the guide, three Chileans, 4 Germans, and June from Japan (aka "Japanese" haha)
-The group of 9 and our guide set out on the three hour 4x4 ride to Santa Rosa, the entrance to Pampas
-1 hour into the bumpy and muddy ride we come to a sliding halt...3 toed sloth!
-20 minutes later a pack of Capibaras
-Along the route we saw countless Egrets and Herons
-We passed the pueblo Reyes, and had lunch in Santa Rosa at 12:30, just after paying the 150 Boliviano entrance fee to the Pampas del Yacuma national park (Santa Rosa-Beni)
-Soup, ground meat, and veggies
-20 minute ride from town to the boat
-spent 10 minutes loading the boat and paying high prices for Snickers (10 Bolivianos)
-2 pm we began our boat ride into the jungle on the Yacuma river...a three hour journey during the wet season in a 50ft long narrow boat, maybe 5 feet wide, with a small hand-driven outboard motor on the back...4 rows of two seats folded down (made of metal frame with rubber/plastic twine as the seat and back rest)
-The river and entire area is flooded do to the rainy season...7 meters higher than the dry season!  The Yacuma is like a snake, doing countless switchbacks and u-turns...but the floods allowed Choco to guide through the river like "cutting dollar bill sign$"
-I spotted the first animal on the boat ride two minutes in (thanks fam!) the trip...Galapagos turtle...much larger than the normal fresh water turtles that were sunbathing everywhere...it had stripes under its neck and chin...really large actually, maybe a 18 inches in diameter
-The leisurely boat ride was filled with wildlife, mostly turtles, frogs, and so so many birds lots of herons and egrets...the greater rhea  emu (huge), the Southern Screamer (massive too), Neotropic Comerant and other black cormerant (of course...these things are everywhere, blah!), Pinnated Bittern, Stripe-backed Bittern, Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, White-faced Ibis, Green Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill (look this one up, so beautiful!), Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, Osprey, Black-collared Hawk, Harris's Hawk, Black Hawk-Eagle, two types of Toucans, Blue and Yellow Macaws...and a ton of other birds!
-got to the cabin which was sitting on stilts maybe one meter above the flood waters...the circular hammock room overlooked the river and was the launch off point for the rope swing...it also happened to act as the shade for the local crocodiles that lounged around the place.
-our host had a mess of cookies and a heep of popcorn waiting for us with a bit of fresh jungle lemonade...que rico!
- Now we had just enough time to test the rope swing...the current of the river was swift and at this point in time, we weren´t really aware of all the crocodiles lurking about...not to mention the pink dolphins and piranha sharing the current!
-we dried off, and took a 2 minute boat ride up the river to a small place that overlooked the soggy grasslands...a perfect setting for a cerveza and a sunset!
-As soon as the sun dipped blow the jungle horizon...a cloud of ferocious mosquitos came out...vicious little buggers that let you know if you missed a spot of deet...thy were biting though my clothes!
-we came back to the cabin where a feast was awaiting us...fat and happy!
-we sat down for a swing in the hammock...followed by a sudden urge to grab the flashlights and head out onto the docks and spot animals lurking about...shocking!...dozens of sets of glowing orange eyes, hooting of howler monkeys, and swooping bats took the stage...up until the fireflies took over...a smashing display of illuminescents lit the sky...it was like fireworks!...and the two orange glowing planets on the horizon perfectly resembled the lurking crocodile eyes!  I stayed up for hours, periodically checking the floods for animals...it was an amazing first day!