If there wasn't an entrance gate with a few local boys collecting nominal parking fees, then you might never get to the best beaches. Are Goling, Mawun, and Wawi are three of my favorite spots east of Kuta Lombok. You have to go over the hills. Around ten thousand pot holes. Through countless rice paddies or peanut paddies or soy fields or are they something else? Passing the huts of thatched roofing, bamboo walls, and no electricity. Then you hang a left. Which left? Not sure, just go left towards the ocean. But like I said, if the gates weren't there, you'd probably turn back. Before you can see the beach or ocean you have to literally pass over rice fields, by the barefoot workers, and on muddy, rundown, and grooved out dirt roads. You've been riding your bike for over an hour now. Your hands hurt from braking and holding your self steady on the atrocious dirt roads, your eyes hurt from concentrating too much on pot holes and kids playing in the street, and your sunscreen is wearing off allowing your skin to be further damaged as your sweat magnifies the results. Then...just as you doubt your way for the hundreth time, the foliage breaks. Your eyes wide open and your mind running at full speed, you're awe struck. Though I'm trying, this unexplainable beauty lays infront of you. Undeveloped, unsetteled, and undisturbed these beaches are just waiting. Waiting for surfers to play on their fairytale waves. Waiting for you to test your medel and stamina as she heeves double over head sets onto you. Waiting for your toes to slip through the quinoa like pebbles of sand. Or is it time sculpted coral debris? Speaking of coral, it's plentiful. With blues, greens, and reds lighting the ocean floor you'd be mistaken if her beauty was as kind as her touch. Waiting for your bloody feet. Waiting for your return despite it. Waiting for your eyes, imagination, and creative ideas to unfold her beautiful landscape. It's something from a dream.
The waves are a crashing of reef break. With a little local knowledge you can navigate your way through the shallow coral, maybe at the rip or between the rocks. The tides move slow. The waves can be perfect, literally what you see on tv. There's hype here in Indonesia and for good reason. I've had more days surfing alone here on Lombok than with company. It's been overhead up until yesterday. Offshore winds hold the barrels wide and make for awesome 15 foot rooster tails off the backside of the wave. Paradise couldn't be much better than these gems.
The compromise. The land is cheap, really cheap. 3 to 7 thousand per 100 square meters of beach front. But the roads aren't developed. You can purchase from the locals but who's to say it's legal, legitimate, or safe? You can purchase through a realator. But they will inform you that you need a local to purchase the land for you then that local must sign over the power of attorney to you. Supposedly this is the safe way? Now you need to find a local you can trust. The "Kiwi" we spoke to last night has his trusted sponsor "Jay" from "Tate Development." A local that this New Zealander has known for 6 years.
The task seems daunting, especially for a traveling dreamer with little money to put where his mouth is. Everyone here hopes that Lombok is to turn into the next Bali. If this happens, prices will skyrocket. But this endeavor is less of an investment as it is a procurement of my future "Drummond Island." My Grandfather and his sons have been going to Drummond Island in the northern peninsula of Michigan for half a lifetime. I've been going for my entire life and hope to conitinue this tradition till I'm gone. I'm left wondering. Sitting in the quinoa sand, starring at the "Jurrasic Park" backdrop, and listening to the perfectly crashing waves, I can't help but wonder how my Grandpa feels. How he feels for creating a tradition. The only real tradition I really know. The only real tradition our entire family knows! Out of thin air, with guts, a little foresight, and passion for his hobbies, Grandpa carved the way for lifetimes of tradition in a place our entire family has come to cherish. How does that feel Grandpa? To be a creator? To be a leader? To be a Sturdevant? I can't say for certain that Lombok, Indonesia is the place, but I can say I will surely start building upon your tradition one day soon.
