Sunday, May 27, 2012

Ubud starting to grow on me...

After breakfast was served on our patio overlooking the rice fields, Morgan and I set out to explore Ubud. There was a huge local market, cooking classes, painting classes, yoga, massage courses, a monkey park, and plenty of museums.

First stop,the ARMA museum. They actually offered most attractions listed above. But Morgs was keen on the painting class and she booked a session for the next day. I really wanted to do the cooking class but it seemed expensive at the museum. So I asked the guy behind the counter "where's another good cooking class?" The guy says "well I work here, this is the best!" I probed and asked him to help. "come on dude, there has to be a cheaper place that makes great food, help a Bro out!. We are doing the painting class, you got our business, now level with me and lets find a reasonable cooking Class!" He laughed and wrote down on the map of a place that had a reputation for quality.

A five course Meal! Indonesian chicken salad, Nasi goreng special, chicken curry, tiger prawns dish, and a black rice pudding. Bomby Bomb! Morgan and I had been eating these dishes for weeks now and loved the idea of learning the secret touch in their preparations!

Us, a honeymooning couple from New Zealand, and a couple from Holland were honed together at the cooking class. It was a beautiful facility. After our welcome fruit smoothies we were showed the grounds. Little koi ponds separated the shallots, peanuts, ginger, basil, hot peppers, and lemon trees. We put on aprons and went over the menu. We jumped right in. It was fun. Mainly just chopping and cutting but some occasional stirring of the meals was our primary task. But the recipes are simple, fresh, and aromatic. The chefs answered all questions, took their time, and obliged our humor.

The best part, Dinner! We got to eat what we prepared. And it was a wonderful Feast! The meals and recipes are so good yet simple that Morgan and I will use them in Michigan to feed the family :-) Get ready Grandpa, this ain't your normal turkey dinner!




I won't forget Ubud!

Off to a rough start but Ubud finally came around. With a great cooking class, Morgan off to the painting course, and lots of time to explore the local outdoor markets, I was content.

I spent the entire time in the markets looking for one thing. A blowgun! Well, another one. My Bro saw mine from Lombok on a Facebook blast and he showed interest. Being in the woodcarving capital of Bali, I was confident I could sniff one out, despite what our hotel concierge told me.

Markets can be tricky, especially for the novice, and especially if you don't have something specific you're looking for. First of all, they are expert salesmen and haggelers. Second, your concept of value is skewed by the conversion rates. And third, you're out numbered. I learned the hard way in South America, but I'm now a pro. My search was very specific. This is perfect because the ten thousand offers to buy the same bracelet or hat can be thwarted by a simple..."blowgun?"

Advice: learn the name of your specific item in the local language. It saves time and heart ache.

After a little time and few disappointed salesmen, I was able to find a seller. They started at 300,000 rupiah. I laughed, said 50,000 and started to walk away. I turned around when I heard 75,000, smiled, and handed over the cash. Bro, mission accomplished. I see us attacking the local wildlife and one  another for a few hours on Drummond...or until we loose all the darts!

Yes Ubud is unforgettable. I won't forget the grey monkeys that cross the street in suicidal attempts to harass onlookers as they dodge my scooter. I won't forget the wonderful cooking class and amazing recipes of the local fare. I won't forget the cool temple like hotel room and their weird shower designs. I won't forget the worst meal of my life or the crazy hectic markets. And I surely won't forget the cop I bribed for $10 after he whistled me and Morgan over for turning down a one-way street into on coming traffic on the scooter. Till next time Ubud!




Rough start in Ubud...

We opted for the slow ferry as opposed to the speed boat. It would save a few bucks and possibly feel a little more culturally immersed. We were sad to leave Kuta  Lombok but anxious to get to Ubud, another infamous city in Bali. Morgan and I took to the sun deck on the ferry thinking a little sun and some fresh air would soothe the soul. Funny cause the top deck was exactly where the two massive diesel exhaust towers reside. Not to mention that the ferry went so slow that the breeze was nothing but a whisper. So I sat there with my shirt off, baking in the sun and basting in my sweat. I had a nice thick brown coat of zinc oxide sunscreen on my face too. I Looked like a psycho but my nose isn't red, Ha! Over six hours later we got to Pandangby. Now just an hour car ride to Ubud.

In hind sight, I think I would opt for the fast boat. Its just not a good feeling arriving to a new town in the dark. You don't get oriented till the next morning, you're tired and just want food, any food. The food thing is an issue because you don't have time to scope a bunch of menus or ask around. You're so hungry you just go to the closest place that's open. Same goes for hotel accommodations. Whatever the guide book says that's the default. Its dark, no sense in messing around with a bunch of gear.

We settled in at a nice hotel. Felt like a temple or sanctuary. With elaborate walls, ceilings, and decor, this hotel was nothing short of Hindu! Morgan and I were craving curry. We have had curry at least once everyday since the Gili islands, over two weeks now, and we weren't looking to change. A taxi driver offering his services pointed to a restaurant across the street after we refused his trade. A nice boutique looking place with vintage lamps and floor seating on cushions. Looked like a perfect spot for Indonesian cuisine. FAIL! My curry tasted like water, I didn't finish half of it. And if you know me, I don't leave food on my plate. I was so dissatisfied with my meal, I went down the street and ordered some fried rice to-go. I hate ending a day with a bad taste in my mouth.

The irony is that we had found the perfect restaurant in Kuta. Our sweet Indonesian mother who owned the grocery store attached to the restaurant. She made great food, which never cost more than $1.80 American. I spotted her shop when looking for bananas for  my surf trip over the hill and noticed a full restaurant of locals just next door. I knew she was doing something right. No recommendation, just common sense. Follow the crowds of locals to the watering holes.

Now I'm stuck wondering around at night looking for a comparable "warung" in Ubud and end up with watery curry. But the diamond in the rough was the neighboring fried rice facility. Amazing! Forget the recommendations and go with your gut and even more so where the crowds are. This place rocked it. I went to bed happy and with a full tummy! Plus Morgan didn't have to hear me complain all night :-)